In recent years, acid-containing cosmetics have become increasingly popular. The presence of acids in cosmetics contributes to a healthy skin tone, as well as more thorough cleansing and renewal.
Modern cosmetology uses ANA and BHA acids. The difference between these two acids is in the principle of their action: AHA-acid has a caring effect on any type of skin, BHA acid is intended for the care of oily and problem skin.
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ANA acid
In the composition of many cosmetics on the packaging, you can see, among other things, the mysterious abbreviation ANA. This widely used ingredient stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. In other words, it is a fruit acid. Products containing alpha hydroxy acids have gained wide popularity due to the multi-effect that promotes collagen synthesis, hydration and exfoliation of the skin.
An important point is that the cosmetic product takes care not only superficially. The product with AHA-acid is capable of caring at the cellular level, acting from the inside as well.
Fruit acid is one of the latest progressive innovations in the world of cosmetology.
Action of AHA acid
The range of actions of cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids is quite wide. Such cosmetics perform regenerating, cleansing and moisturizing functions. Regular use will significantly reduce existing wrinkles, make skin imperfections less visible, and make skin tone more even.
Due to its ability to reduce the bonding of corneocytes in the upper layer of the skin, products with AHA acids have a good exfoliating effect. After getting rid of dead particles, the skin is significantly transformed, since a layer of new young cells comes to the surface.
The moisturizing effect is due to the influx of moisture, which comes from the deeper layers of the skin to its surface. This is especially beneficial for dry and sensitive skin. Removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin is an important aspect in skin care. Only renewed cells can fully receive all the nutrients from the cream or serum at the final stage of care.
The constant use of fruit acid in skin care will help whiten pigmented skin.
Varieties of ANA acids
- Lemon
The one that all citrus fruits contain. The presence of this component provides a whitening effect. The result is enhanced by interaction with tartaric acid. Citric acid in cosmetics is also responsible for the metabolism of the skin and its renewal. It is necessary to add antioxidant and bactericidal properties to the number of properties. - Apple It occurs naturally in tomatoes and, of course, in apples. Its function is to enhance cell metabolism.
- Glycolic
Given that its molecular weight is low, glycolic acid penetrates the epidermis barrier very quickly.Products containing this acid should be purchased for those wishing to get rid of hyperpigmentation and post-acne. - Dairy
Its main function is moisturizing. This type of acid helps to retain moisture in the skin cells. In nature, it can be found in products such as dairy products, maple syrup, grapes, apples. - Wine acid
Otherwise, it is called tartar. Exfoliates dead skin cells, whitens and moisturizes the skin.
Effects of AHA Acid on Various Skin Types
- Dry skin type
Such skin is more prone to premature aging than others. When it comes to the appearance of the skin, youth and hydration can be considered synonymous. Dry skin is deficient in moisture. The help of AHA acids here is to enhance the hydroscopic properties of the skin. Acids remove dead particles from the surface of the dermis, thereby providing an accelerated path of moisturizing components to skin cells. - Oily skin type Cosmetics containing AHA acids have a beneficial effect on oily skin types. First of all, this fruit acid helps to cleanse the ducts of the sebaceous glands, preventing inflammation and comedones. If the skin is problematic, it is recommended to use special cosmetics for the treatment of acne in combination with products containing AHA acids. After all, the medicinal components of the preparations penetrate much faster into the cleansed surface of the skin. In addition to good cleansing, alpha hydroxy acid helps to shrink pores and get rid of blackheads.
- Mature skin type First of all, it needs active nutrition. Deep cleansing enhances the effect of nutrients from creams and serums. The appearance of the skin depends on the amount of hyaluronic acid it contains. Unfortunately, over the years, its supply becomes less and less. The skin becomes more flabby, the condition of the epidermis as a whole worsens. AHA-acid in this case plays the role of a framework that holds collagen fibers. It stimulates the cells responsible for the production of substances such as collagen and elastin. Of course, a miracle will not happen and the skin will become young again. However, the appearance will improve significantly.
- Skin prone to pigmentation The symbiosis of citric and tartaric acids, related to AHA acids, will help whiten, or even get rid of existing hyperpigmentation. Combine effectively with whitening products.
BHA acid
The second type of acid used in cosmetic products. Its other name is salicylic acid. The main action of BHA acid (beta hydroxy acid) is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.
Its distinctive feature is that beta hydroxy acid penetrates into the deeper layers of the epidermis. The use of cosmetics with Salicylic acid is indicated for owners of oily and problem skin. Cosmetics containing acids will help to cope with such troubles as acne, inflammation, blackheads. Benefits include even tone, healing and acne reduction.
Another advantage of BHA acid is its increased elasticity. The constituents beta-hydroxy acids prevent the destruction of hyaluronic acid molecules.
The use of a cosmetic product that contains BHA acid is not recommended for owners of dry skin. The thing is that salicylic acid has drying properties.
You should not get too carried away with such funds, they can cause uncomfortable sensations in the form of burning and irritation.
The main differences between ANA and BHA acids
Alpha acid is water-soluble, beta acid is fat-soluble.
Cosmetic products with AHA acid are suitable for all skin types, but mainly for dry, pigmented and aging skin. These types, in addition to cleansing, need additional moisture. Alpha hydroxy acid has good moisture retention properties.
The source of fruit acid is mainly dairy and plant products. However, in cosmetology, this acid is used in a synthetic form. This is due to a reduction in cost and environmental friendliness of the material (AHA-acid is highly purified).
Cosmetics with BHA acid are suitable mainly for oily and problem skin. Due to the fact that the sebum layer is not an obstacle for BHA acid, it easily penetrates into the deep layers of the skin.
In cosmetology, salicylic acid is most often used as BHA acid. It exfoliates well and helps relieve inflammation from acne and acne.
A cosmetic product with BHA acid will be effective if the content of salicylic acid in it is no more than 2 percent, and the pH level is 3.5.
| Acid name | Acid group | Effects on the skin | What type of skin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glycolic acid | ANA acids | penetrating into the lower layers of the skin, optimizes the oil balance; reduces pores; helps to eliminate pigmentation | for all skin types |
| Tartaric acid | ANA acids | skin whitening; elimination of pigmentation; exfoliation and regeneration | for all skin types |
| Alpha hydroxy acid | ANA acids | restores elasticity and firmness; moisturizes well; regulation of acid-base balance | for all skin types |
| Salicylic acid | BHA acids | antibacterial action; effective in combating acne and acne; eliminates oily sheen; evens out skin tone | for oily and problem skin |
Recommendations for the use of products with ANA and BHA acids
Before using the tool for its intended purpose, you must definitely test it. To do this, you need to apply the product to the skin of the elbow, and if unpleasant sensations do not appear within 15-20 minutes, you can safely use the product in accordance with the instructions.
Creams containing acids should be applied to cleansed skin, remembering to moisturize the face after it is completely absorbed.
During use and after another month and a half of use, it is necessary to monitor the protection against UV exposure. You need to use sunscreen all year round.
It is necessary to stop using cosmetics with acids immediately if irritation and burning appear.
Review of the best manufacturers of cosmetics with AHA and BHA acids
Great for moisturizing dry skin. Effective for dry skin. The composition includes tartaric, salicylic and glycolic acids. The promised effect comes after a few applications. After application, it takes a little time for the toner to be absorbed. Then you can apply a cream suitable for your skin type.
The price of the tonic is 1,300 rubles.
Advantages:
- suitable for sensitive skin;
- does not dry out;
- economical to use;
- mild exfoliating action;
- evens out the tone.
Disadvantages:
- price.
Biologique Recherche Lotion Tonic P50
A fairly aggressive tonic, which contains salicylic acid. In addition to salicylic, the tonic also contains AHA acids. It is very popular in Western countries. In Russia, you will not find it on sale in ordinary stores. The tonic of this brand is presented only in special salons.
The manufacturer promises a good effect from use: smoothing shallow wrinkles, evening tone and noticeably cleansing pores. By the way, due to the presence of salicylic acid in the composition, it is not recommended for owners of sensitive skin.
Advantages:
- natural composition;
- good hydration;
- effective in combating inflammation;
- soft exfoliation and smoothing of uneven skin.
Disadvantages:
- the aroma of the cream is specific;
- absent on store shelves.
Peeling Alpha-H Liquid Gold
A very effective remedy that contains glycolic acid. Made in Australia. It is very popular in the West and has already established itself well in the Russian market.
The lotion is recommended mainly for owners of aging skin and promises to smooth out superficial wrinkles, significantly reduce pigmented spots.
Average price - 2 800 rubles.
Advantages:
- noticeable result from the first weeks of use;
- gentle cleaning and surface restoration;
- convenient bottle with economical consumption.
Disadvantages:
- very high cost;
- it can be difficult to find on sale.
Lotion Noreva Exfoliac AHA BHA Lotion
The French-made product is designed primarily for problem skin. It contains acids such as salicylic and glycolic. It is these ingredients that are responsible for cleansing and exfoliating. The tool is not daily - you can use it no more than 2-3 times a week.
Not recommended for dry and sensitive types. Price: within 1,000 rubles.
Advantages:
- effective in combating acne;
- dries up oily skin;
- matting effect.
Disadvantages:
- may cause irritation and tightness;
- not suitable for sensitive skin.
Vichy Normaderm Total Mat Cream
The content of only 0.5% salicylic acid makes this cream suitable for regular use. Such a gentle composition will allow the product to become a worthy substitute for a makeup base. In addition to the mattifying effect, Vichy Normaderm Total Mat cream cleanses and significantly shrinks pores.
Recommended for oily and problem skin. Average cost - 1200 rubles.
Advantages:
- mattifies oily skin;
- moisturizing;
- can be used instead of a make-up base;
- non-greasy consistency;
- pleasant aroma.
Disadvantages:
- may tingle;
- price.
Reviva Labs 10% Glycolic Acid Cream
Night cream containing alpha hydroxy acid, namely glycolic acid. A very popular cosmetic product aimed at exfoliating the stratum corneum. Regular use of this remedy will help reduce acne marks.
The product is available with a glycolic acid concentration of 5 and 10%. Frequent use is not recommended for dry and sensitive skin.
Price with 5% concentration - 2,500 rubles.
Advantages:
- well renews the skin of the face;
- cleansing and getting rid of blackheads;
- economical consumption.
Disadvantages:
- high price;
- may tingle;
- requires careful use so as not to damage the skin.
BHA Summer Pore Minish Serum
Korean manufacturers of skin care cosmetics cannot be ignored either. Serum (which, by the way, can also be used as a tonic), is recommended for owners of oily and problem skin. The complex composition of salicylic acid, white willow bark extract and niacinamide helps fight acne and prevents its further occurrence.
The product has a good cleansing and mattifying effect. Price for 100 ml - 1 700 rubles.
Advantages:
- regulates the secretion of sebum;
- mattifies and refreshes;
- a noticeable effect in the fight against acne;
- refreshes the complexion.
Disadvantages:
- high price;
- not available for sale.
Peeling ANA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid
Another Korean-made product. The concentration of glycolic acid is 7%. A powerful exfoliating essence that will help cleanse and renew your skin. Use - 2-3 times a week. After use, be sure to use a moisturizer, and during the period of use, you must use sunscreen.
Price for 100 ml - 1100 rubles.
Advantages:
- exfoliates dead skin cells;
- gives a healthy look;
- natural composition.
Disadvantages:
- May not be suitable for sensitive skin
- not available for sale.
Instead of a total
If the question is whether or not to use cosmetic products with acids, then, definitely, yes, it's worth it! AHA- and BHA-acids have a beneficial effect on the skin, relieving it of problems. The only caveat: it is imperative to take into account your skin type when choosing a cosmetic product with acids.
